Friday, January 7, 2011

Cabled Crochet Fingerless Gloves


I made myself a cabled crochet hat following this pattern, and I wanted to make some fingerless gloves to match.  However, there weren't any patterns that I could find even remotely close to what I wanted, so I came up with one myself.  If you get lost in the cabling instructions, the hat pattern has some very good pictures detailing the steps.

Pattern uses:
fpdc, bpdc, fptc
4 mm crochet hook
~100 g 8 ply wool

In all rows, begin on a ch2.  This counts as the first bpdc in the repeated pattern

r1   32 foundation dc.  Join with sl st
r2   *bpdc, fpdc* repeat around x16.  Join
r3   *bpdc, fpdc* repeat around x16.  Join
r4   *bpdc, 2fpdc, bpdc, 4fpdc* repeat around x4.  Join
r5   *bpdc, 2fpdc, bpdc, 4fpdc* repeat around x4.  Join
r6   *bpdc, 2fpdc, bpdc, fptc in 3rd fpdc, fptc in 4th fpdc, fptc in 1st fpdt, fptc in 2nd fpdc* repeat around x4.  Join
In r7, it's important that you crochet into the fptc in the same order that you crocheted them.
r7   *bpdc, 2fpdc, bpdc, 4fpdc* repeat around x4.  Join

Repeat rows 5-7 until work reaches the desired length between knuckles and thumb.  Stop on any row.

sl st across top of 1st fpdc ch2, fpdc on next stitch and repeat cabling pattern until get to beginning ch2 from previous round.  Bpdc in that ch2, fpdc in same fpdc as sl st from start of round, dc in gap before ch2.  Fasten off. **Reattach yarn into top of first fpdc, ch2, fpdc in same stitch, repeat pattern around ending with a fpdc in the final dc, fasten off** Repeat between **  ** the appropriate amount of times until work reaches the base of your thumb just above your wrist.

Return to repeating rows 5-7.  On the first row after finishing the thumb hole, join the extra dc/ch2 between the first 2 fpdc together by doing a fpdc across the two of them.  Continue until desired length up the arm is reached.  Finish on row 5.

Repeat rows 2 and 3  six times for a ribbed cuff.  Fasten off, then tuck in ends.  You'll have a bunch of ends from the thumb holes.  I find it best to tuck them down the backs of the two fpdc lines on either side, that way the slight thickening is less noticeable.


Thumb:

Dc around the ch2/dc circle that makes the edge of the thumb hole, starting from the bottom (wrist end) and averaging 1 dc per stitch.  *Don't join, and work a dc dec in every stitch until about halfway up the thumb hole.  Dc until the top (finger end) of the hole, then work a single dec at the corner.  Continue dc until halfway down the hole, then dec every stitch back to the start of the round*.  Work * * to make a third row, sl st then fasten off and tuck in ends.

The pattern can be adjusted for smaller or larger hands by extending the 8 stitch motif to 10 stitches by adding additional bpdc to the two bpdc spaces and using more or less pattern repeats.

4 comments:

  1. Hi there! Great pattern but I have a question. My understanding of "fasten off" means to cut the yarn and pull it through. Am I supposed to do that with each round to construct the thumb-hole?

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  2. Hi. Yes, you need to fasten off at the end of each round. It does leave you with a bunch of loose ends, which you have to sew into the underside of the pattern.

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  3. I am going to attempt this pattern. I say attempt because it will be my first time doing cables. But I absolutly love these. I was wondering tho, is there any difference between the light gray and the dark gray? It looks as if the light gray details aren't as prominent as the darks. Was a different yarn used? Or is it just the pics that make it look different? Thanks in advance.

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  4. If you're talking about the two photos, they're just the same glove (in black wool) photographed with (bottom photo) and without (top photo) a flash to try and illustrate the pattern details. The yarn I used was a nice 100% wool one that wasn't too scratchy. I think that any normal yarn will give you a good contrast on the cables, with tighter ones giving more definition but a stiffer glove.

    Good luck!

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